Category Archives: Deer-resistant

Creating a Deer-Resistant Garden

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If you garden around deer, you understand how difficult it can be to create a garden that is visually pleasing to people while at the same time being as unappealing as possible to deer.  We all know the best strategy for keeping deer out of our gardens and away from our plants is to erect a deer fence. But let’s face it, that is not an option for every gardener, either from a financial or an aesthetic standpoint.

If  Only Deer Could Read

While lists of deer resistant plants abound, they are only so helpful. First of all, the deer don’t read them. They don’t know that plants like lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis), lilac (Syringa vulgaris) and forsythia (Forsythia intermedia) are widely touted as being deer resistant. All are recent deer favorites in my garden. That’s another inherent problem with lists of deer-resistant plants, what’s deer resistant in my garden might not be in yours. And vice versa. Finding the right deer-resistant plants for your garden is truly a case of trial and error.

Sorry for the quality, I took this early one morning. What you don't see are the other two deer just outside of the frame on the right. UGH!

The best advice I can offer, regardless of where you garden, is to start off with a palette of deer-resistant plants for your region and then pay close attention. A great place to find a list of locally deer-resistant plants is at your independent garden center or check with your local Cooperative Extension office.

There are so many factors that influence ‘browsability’ of plants, including the time of the year, extreme weather conditions and the taste buds of your deer. Knowing a little bit about deer and their likes and dislikes can go a long way towards helping you create a deer-resistant garden.

Keep ‘Em Guessing

◊ Deer are creatures of habit. More than likely, they enter and exit your garden at the same points and follow the same general path around it each time. That means a deer-resistant plant located on a known deer pathway may see more damage than the same plant located elsewhere in your garden. Take notes about what’s happening in your garden and transplant deer favorites if needed.

◊ Deer seem to like plants that have been over-fertilized. According to some scientists, deer are attracted to the excess nitrogen in some plants. Rather than adding all sorts of extra fertilizers to over-stimulate your plants, simply top dress  with compost once a year to provide your plants with the balanced nutrition they need.

◊ Deer do not like to navigate grade changes in a garden. They dislike anything that affects their footing or hinders a quick getaway. Use berms, terracing and steps to deal with natural slopes in your garden. Make it as difficult and uncomfortable as possible for the deer to cruise around your garden.

◊ There are certain times of the year when deer browsing is especially intense so you’ll need to be extra vigilant. These include times of drought (deer get almost 1/3 of their water from the moisture in plants), heavy snow coverage (when deer can’t access their usual food sources they often turn to typically resistant plants to survive), and spring when plants are pushing out new growth.

◊ ‘Hide’ deer candy among deer-resistant plants. This seems to work best if you use highly fragrant deer-resistant plants, like herbs.  I have to admit I’ve had limited success with this strategy, but I know gardeners who use this camouflaging  technique all the time.

◊ It can be more difficult to protect perennials than shrubs or trees, so design your garden with as many shrubs and trees as possible. Simply limbing up susceptible trees out of deer browsing range, typically about 5′ – 6′ off of the ground, can greatly expand your plant options. This is an especially effective strategy if you are a wildlife gardener who plants fruiting tree to attract birds, such as crabapples, service berries or hawthorns.

◊ As you’re waiting for newly planted perennials and shrubs to fill in, fill gaps with deer-resistant annuals. Teach deer early on that there’s nothing yummy in your garden.

A Last Resort

Forget the Belgian block apron, install a cattle grate instead!

And here’s another tip that probably is not for everyone (kind of like a fence) but it seems to work. Install a cattle grate at the entrance to your driveway. This one, that from a distance looks very similar to the ubiquitous Belgian block aprons seen in this area of southwestern Connecticut, protects a 5-acre property that is full of deer goodies. The property is surrounded be a deer fence so the only access point for deer is straight down the driveway.

Since deer hate to walk on uneven surfaces, the cattle grate keeps them away from delicacies like apple, pear and cherry trees. Not to mention a lush veggie garden and plethora of plants that will never be found on anyone’s list of deer-resistant plants.

For more tips on creating a deer resistant garden, especially for your west coasters, check out Gen Schmidt’s post, Putting Your Deer on a Diet.

So tell me…what strategies for deterring deer work in your garden?

Before you leave, don’t forget to check out my post on Deer Off deer repellent. If you’d like to be eligible to win a free bottle of Deer Off, leave a comment on that post, too.

Plant Possibilities: Amsonia hubrichtii

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Not only is this the time of year when Hollywood stars are receiving their awards, plants are being recognized for their contributions in the garden too.  Every year, the Perennial Plant Association chooses a plant of the year and for 2011, the winner is…Amsonia hubrichtii (Arkansas Blue Star).

Arkansas Blue Star flowers

This  perennial, native to the southwestern US and named after Leslie Hubricht who discovered it growing wild in a field in the early 1940’s, has very narrow, needle-like leaves that line the stem.   From late spring through early summer, 3 inch wide clusters of small, light blue, star-shaped flowers are held above the short mound of delicate foliage. After blooming, it quickly grows to reach a height of about 3 feet.  It is hardy in zones 5 – 8.

Amsonia hubrichtii adds a billowy, finely textured element to the garden. It eventually grows into a dense mass, similar to a small shrub. While the pale blue flowers can be useful in toning down adjacent brightly-colored flowers, and its foliage adds interesting texture all summer long, arguably the best feature of Amsonia hubrichtii is its fall color.  The entire plant turns a stunning shade of golden-yellow and makes an ideal backdrop for fall-blooming perennials such as sedums and asters.

Brilliant fall foliage

Arkansas Blue Star thrives in most gardens with little care. It is deer-resistant and is typically not bothered by pests or disease.  Plant it in full sun or partial shade and well-drained soil.  If it is grown in too much shade or in very rich soil, its habit will be open and floppy. This plant grows fairly large (3 feet x 4 feet) in zones 4 – 9 but it will not need to be divided for many years

According to the Perennial Care Manual by Nancy Ondra, young plants should be spaced 2 – 3 feet apart.  But if you desire a fuller look sooner, space 12 – 18 inches apart but know that you will need to move them in a few years.   Plants typically bloom by mid-to-late spring.  Cutting Amsonia hubrichtii back by half after flowering will stop self-sowing and result in smaller, bushier clumps.  Once established, it should not require watering except during long dry spells.

Plants can be cut back in either the late fall or late winter.  Remember to wear gloves when working with Amsonia since stems release a white sap that can irritate skin.

Note:  Photos are courtesy of Missouri Botanical Garden PlantFinder

7 Low-Seed Japanese Barberries

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Recently, Connecticut plant growers took the important step of implementing a self-imposed phase-out of 25 different cultivars of Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii).  One of the interesting aspects of the three-year phase-out by Connecticut growers is that it’s backed by some pretty heavy-duty science.  For overs 7 years, a team of scientists at UCONN, lead by Dr. Mark Brand have been studying Japanese barberry cultivars to see which one were most invasive.  Invasiveness was, in part, based on fruit and seed production.  In a nutshell, the higher the number of seeds/fruit, the more invasive.

Berberis thunbergii Royal Burgundy

'Roayl Burgundy' is a low-seeder

While Dr. Brand’s research helped determine the 25 cultivars which were eventually included in the 3-year phase-out, it also identified some cultivars which do not seem to be as invasive and therefore may have a place in designed landscapes.  While Japanese barberries have a lot of negative traits, they are so popular with landscapers and homeowners for a few very valid reasons – they are tough-as-nails, inexpensive and deer-resistant.   They also add a splash of color and can be pruned to maintain a desired size.  Mind you, I’m not advocating planting Japanese barberry, but if you’re going to plant them, why not choose cultivars wisely? 

Consider this post like sex ed for Japanese barberry fans!  If you’re going to do it, make sure you take steps to protect your garden…a little knowledge can go a long way.  But before you rush out to buy Japanese barberry, click here  to read about the surprising relationship between Japanese barberry and Lyme disease.

The following list highlights some of the lowest seed-producing Japanese barberry cultivars, according to Dr. Brand’s research.  The seed/fruit of each cultivar is listed in parenthesis.  For comparisons sake, the Japanese barberry phaseout includes cultivars ranging from a high of 9,926 seeds/fruit (‘Tara’) to 638 seeds/fruit (“Silver Mile’).  The parent species, the wild green-leaved bush,  has 1,105 seeds/fruit.

In case you’re wondering how to spot a low-seed cultivar without memorizing this list, according to Dr. Brand, look for yellow-leaved cultivars, dwarf purple-leaved cultivars and upright purple-leaved cultivars.

Note: Information about seed/fruit production of the cultivars comes from the Connecticut & Nursery Landscape Summer 2010 magazine.

Photo from www.monrovia.com

Plant Possibilities: Whipcord arborvitae

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I have a confession to make, I have a dwarf conifer fetish.  Maybe fetish is too strong of a word but I am drawn to dwarf conifers in gardens and nurseries where ever I go.  I like the dwarf ones because, like their bigger cousins, they add continuity and year round interest to any garden.  They can anchor a planting just like larger conifers can.  But they don’t dominate a garden the same way larger conifers tend to.  They are also easier to integrate into any garden – dwarf conifers can be planted with perennials and deciduous shrubs or grouped together with other conifers to showcase their unique characteristics. 

Thuja plicata 'Whipcord'

"Whipcord' arborvitae is a new addition to my garden

 

One of my newest ‘loves’ is Thuja plicata ‘Whipcord’ , an interesting conifer with thin, droopy, cascading branches.  To me it looks a bit like an unruly head of hair, but I love it.  It’s mounding habit looks a lot like some ornamental grasses.  But unlike ornamental grasses, it will not die back in the winter.  Its unique shape will add a touch of whimsy to my late fall and winter garden, something it certainly needs.  I can’t wait to see Whipcord glistening with frost and even covered in snow.  

The new growth on the ends of the branches, which is a glossy bright green, reminds me of fireworks exploding in mid-air.  The new growth will turn brown to match the branches as the temperatures drop. 

New growth on 'Whipcord' arborvitae

The new growth looks like an explosion of fireworks!

  

The Nitty-Gritty on ‘Whipcord’  

 

The drooping branches of Thuja plicata 'Whipcord'

A better look at the cascading branches

 

If you’re intrigued by Whipcord arborvitae, here are a few basics you should know: 

  • Like most conifers, it performs best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade
  • prefers a moist loamy soil and tolerates acidic and alkaline conditions
  • It is hardy in zones 5 – 8
  • It is considered deer resistant
  • At maturity, it will be about 5′ x 4′
  • Use ‘Whipcord’ in containers, on slopes, mixed with perennials or anywhere it’s drooping habit can be fully appreciated

Flowering Groundcovers for Shade

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Shell's Pink lamium is a prolific bloomer

 

  As a landscape designer, the single most popular request I get from clients is for ‘lots of color in that shady spot’.  When I delve further into the request, I usually find they are looking for perennials that do double duty – bloom in the shade and act as an alternative to the scraggly grass they have been trying to grow unsuccessfully for the past few years.    

There are lots of options for shade tolerant lawn alternatives but not all of them flower.  And those that do are usually subtle and understated.  Gardening in the shade is often about nuances and contrasts, not ‘in-your-face’ flowers that last for a few days or a week if you’re lucky.  Once you learn more about shade-flowering perennials, you’ll find there is lots more to love than just their flowers.    

Here are a few of my favorite flowering groundcovers for shade:    

  • Lamium ‘Shell Pink’ (zones 3 – 8):  Like most other lamiums, Shell Pink  is at home in both sun and shade and in a variety of soils.  Shell Pink is a vigorous grower but is not considered invasive.  Growing to be about 10″ tall, this pretty lamium is covered in pink flowers from spring through summer and is deer-resistant.  Try it in dry shade areas where many other groundcovers simply can’t compete.

     

  • Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum):  This delicate little groundcover is hardy from zones 4 – 8 and is at home in a woodland setting planted under dogwoods and other spring flowering trees and shrubs.  Tiny white flowers sit above the shiny whorled leaves in April and May.  Sweet woodruff tolerates full to partial shade and appreciates moist soil.  When it’s in bloom, sweet woodruff is a conversation starter but when not in bloom, its leaves complement any nearby plant. 

     

  • Brunnera ‘Jack Frost’ (zones 3 – 8):  I love this plant not only for its delicate blue flowers that remind me of Forget-Me-Nots but also for its heart-shaped silvery leaves that brighten up a shady spot.  Give Jack Frost a shady, moist spot and he will slowly spread into a dense clump about 18″ wide.  Brunnera is deer-resistant and can be used to edge a bed or as a woodland groundcover.  Be careful where you plant Jack frost, I’ve found the leaves scorch in a spot that is too sunny or too dry.

     

  • Tiarella cordifolia ‘Running Tapestry’ (zones 4 – 8):  Tiarellas, or foamflowers, are native plants that are perfect groundcovers for shady spots among tree roots.  Running Tapestry sports heart-shaped leaves with ruffled edges and interesting maroon highlights.  It spreads by underground runners, hence the name, and it prefers a location that is consistently moist.  The delicate white flower spikes last for about 6 weeks and add an air of elegance to a shady location.  Running Tapestry in a new addition to my garden and I am trying it out with other shade lovers like astilbe, painted lady ferns and lily-of-the-valley.  Tiarellas are considered deer-resistant but I can’t attest to that yet.  I’m hoping it will eventually weave through the other plants and tie the shady nook together. 

There are many, many more flowering perennials for the shade that add color and interest for months at a time.  Which ones are doing double duty in your garden right now?

Connecticut Native Trees and Shrubs

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Smoothleaf Hydrangea is one of my favorite native shrubs. Here is Annabelle in my garden with a lacecap hydrangea.

 

Gardening with native plants is an important step towards sustainable landscaping, in part because native plants use fewer resources than non-native plants.  Over thousands of years, native plants have adapted to not only tolerate but thrive in typical regional growing conditions.  When sited and planted correctly, native plants do not require much, if any, additional fungicides, insecticides, fertilizers or water. 

Native plants are also a fundamental ingredient for any gardener interested in promoting bio-diversity or who simply hopes to attract local wildlife such as butterflies and birds to their garden.

Gardening with local native plants is essential to providing a regional identity to a designed landscape and anchoring a house to its natural surroundings.  By selecting regional native plants, you are also helping to maintain and preserve the natural beauty of your local landscape.  

 So what exactly is a native plant?  A broadly accepted definition is that a plant is considered native to a certain area or habitat when it occurs naturally without human intervention. Plants native to North America are species found in North America prior to the arrival of Columbus and the subsequent settlement of the continent by Europeans. Plants can also be considered native to a specific region (for example, New England) or a specific state (let’s say, Connecticut). Native plants include both woody plants (trees, shrubs, and vines) and non-woody herbaceous plants (perennials, ferns, grasses). The plants highlighted here are either native specifically to Connecticut or to the New England region. 

The debate between the value of pure native species and cultivars of natives is an ongoing, and often heated, one.  World renowned horticulturist Dr. Allan Armitage coined the word ‘nativar’ to describe a cultivar and/or hybrid of a native species.  I think he summed it up best when he said “they should rule the garden”. 

Do nativars retain all the same positive qualities of the original native species, especially when using natives to support local wildlife?  Are nativars ‘native enough’?  As you’ll see below, I have referenced specific cultivars when I feel their use is appropriate from a garden design perspective.  It is up to the gardener to decide whether or not to use the native species or nativar in their garden.  Personally, I feel the use of either one is a win-win situation for both the garden and the gardener.  

Because native plants are regularly used in restoration or reclamation projects, many gardeners associate them with a wild or unkempt look.  But native plants can be used in any designed landscape whether it is formal, informal or something in between.  When using native plants, please remember to purchase local nursery propagated and grown plants and never remove native plants from the wild.  Also keep in mind that it is perfectly acceptable to mix native and non-native plants in your garden. 

Here is a partial list of Connecticut native trees and shrubs that can be easily incorporated into a variety of gardens, regardless of your personal gardening style: 

American Holly (Ilex opaca):  An upright, pyramidal shrub growing to approximately 15 – 30’ tall in full sun to partial shade.  American Holly is a stately evergreen with red berries lasting through the winter. The species can be sensitive to leaf spots and insects and requires a spot protected from winter winds.  Cultivars such as ‘Jersey Princess’ and ‘Paterson’ seem to show more resistance to pests.  American holly is considered deer resistant.  

 Inkberry (Ilex glabra):  Inkberry is a small evergreen shrub which tolerates a wide range of soil and light conditions.  It has shiny, narrow leaves and a compact, dense shape with black fruit.  It is a less formal option to Boxwood in foundation plantings. Cultivars such as ‘Compacta’ or ‘Shamrock’ have a more refined look and feel than the species.  I have been growing Inkberry for years in my garden and the deer never even take a nip of it. 

Low Bush Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium):   Blueberry bushes are a terrific multi-season addition to any garden.  White, bell-shaped flowers appear in clusters in the spring before the shiny green leaves develop.  Delicious berries cloak this shrub in summer and, of course, are edible if you can get to them before the birds do.  Leaves turn a brilliant red in the fall and the tips of the stems have a light reddish- pink color in the winter.  Blueberries like acidic soil and do not tolerate any alkalinity.  For optimal performance, plant low bush blueberry in full sun. Blueberries are considered deer resistant. 

Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis):  An early-flowering woodland native often grown as a large multi-trunked shrub.  Serviceberries tolerate a wide range of soil and light conditions and are a true multi-season plant with white flowers in the spring, small, edible berries in the summer, brilliant fall foliage and interesting bark for winter interest.  While the species can be prone to some insect damage, it is typically cosmetic only. Serviceberry is not considered reliably deer resistant. 

Smoothleaf  Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens):  Our native hydrangea may not be as colorful or showy as its mop-headed cousins but it is still deserving of a place in any garden.  White blooms appear in June and look fresh through the fall.  This shrub can be treated like a perennial and cut back to the ground in late fall or late winter.  Since it flowers on new wood, smoothleaf hydrangea typically does not suffer from winter bud damage that can plaque some other hydrangeas.  The more manicured look of cultivars such as ‘Annabelle’ and ‘Grandiflora’ appeal to many gardeners. While smoothleaf hydrangea is not considered reliably deer resistant, it is never bothered by the deer in my garden. 

  

Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia):  The fragrant white bottle brush-like flowers of this medium-sized shrub make it a butterfly and bee magnet.  Summersweet prefers full to part sun and average soil and flowers well even in partial shade. ‘Ruby Spice’ is a pink-flowered cultivar while ‘Hummingbird’ is a smaller-sized cultivar with white flowers.  Summersweet is considered to be deer resistant. 

Common Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana):  A small to medium vase-shaped tree with pale yellow spider-like flowers which bloom in the fall.  Leaves turn yellow to pale orange in autumn and fall just as the flowers appear.  Branches are often spreading and crooked and make an interesting winter focal point.  Common witchhazel tolerates sun and shade and a variety of soil conditions although it performs best in moist soil. Common witchhazel is not considered deer resistant. 

For a list of other native trees and shrubs for use in New England and Connecticut gardens, visit the CT Botanical Society or Plant Native to find native plants in your area. 

Do you have a favorite native tree and/or shrub that is thriving in your garden?  If so, please feel free to leave a comment since I’d love to hear it.

Red Majestic Corylus

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Red Majestic is a true multi-season star

 

 Purple foliage adds an interesting accent to a garden.  And trees and shrubs with funky, twisted branches make unique architectural sculptures in the winter garden.  But until now, it’s been difficult to find one plant that offers both characteristics. 

Corylus avellana ’Red Majestic’ is a true four season stunner.  Like its more popular cousin Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’), Red Majestic offers interesting contorted branches that are a mainstay of many winter gardens.  But, unlike its better known cousin, Red Majestic doesn’t blend into the background once its leaves appear. 

New foliage emerges bright red, and as the temperatures start to rise, the leaves turn burgundy and by the middle of the summer the leaves are a deep green.  And if that isn’t enough to convince you to plant one, Red Majestic sports purple catkins in the late fall. 

Red Majestic grows in full sun to partial shade and matures at approximately 10′ x 10′.  Give it ample space so you can appreciate it year-round.  This shrub is hardy in zones 3 – 8 and is considered deer resistant.  

Note:  Photo courtesy of www.shrubaday.com.

Marvelous Mahonia aquifolium

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A useful evergreen shrub for shady spots

Here is southwestern Connecticut (zone 6), Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grapeholly) is definitely a relative unknown.  A native to the Pacific northwest and much of Canada, it is worthy of a place  in shady gardens throughout zones 4 – 8, especially if you have deer browsing in your garden.

Oregon grapeholly has large, glossy evergreen leaves that resemble those of a holly.  It tolerates partial sun to full shade and a variety of soil conditions.  However, it does not like alkaline soil.  Mahonia aquifolium is considered deer resistant which gives gardeners like me who garden around deer another weapon in our ‘shrubs for shady spots’ arsenal.

Bright yellow flowers will brighten shady spots

Because Mahonia aquifolium is evergreen and tolerates a fair amount of shade, it makes both an interesting foundation plant or a screen for areas where other shrubs just can’t survive.

There are several cultivars available for gardeners who are looking for a Mahonia that is slightly different from the species:

  •  Mahonia aquifolium ‘Apollo’:  A low-growing form of Mahonia which makes an interesting evergreen groundcover.  Flowers have a more orangey-yellow color.
  • Mahonia aquifolium ‘Compactum’:  A dwarf form, growing about 2′ tall, with bronze fall color.
  • Mahonia aquifolium ’Smaragd’:  Grows to about 4′ tall and has lovely leaves that start out an emerald green and turn purpley-bronze as the weather gets colder.

It may take a bit of searching to find Mahonia in your local nursery, but your efforts will be well rewarded for years to come.

Adding Color with Berries

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An ideal way to add color to a late fall/early winter garden is to plant shrubs that have berries.  In addition to adding another season of interest and color, you’ll also find your garden is alive with a variety of birds and small animals.  You can find berries in a wide array of colors.  Just keep in mind the intensity of the color of berries can vary from year to year, just like foliage color.  Soil conditions, rainfall amounts and the air temperature when the berries are ripening all influence the timing and color intensity of berries. 

Here’s a very abbreviated list of shrubs with interesting berries which will persist into late fall and early winter and can easily be incorporated into almost any garden. 

Red Chokeberry berries

Shrubs with red berries: 

  • Aronia arbutifolia (Red Chokeberry) – zones  4 -9 . Aronia is a true multi-season plant.  White flowers in the spring give way to red berries that  ripen in the late summer.  Fall foliage can be bright red, making Aronia a good native alternative to the invasive burning bush (Euonymos alatus).  Birds are not interested in the berries until they’ve been through a few frosts so you can be assured chokeberries will remain on the shrubs well into the late fall.  Aronia tolerates wet and dry soil and full sun to partial shade and is highly effective used in mass in a woodland garden.  Aronia typically matures at 6′ x 3′ but there are smaller cultivars available.  Aronia is considered to be deer resistant.
  • Cotoneaster - zones  5 – 7.  Cotoneasters are low-growing, spreading shrubs that make excellent ground covers in both shady and sunny locations.  They look right at home scrambling over rocks walls and steep slopes.  Some are deciduous and others are evergreen but all have red berries in the fall.   Cotoneasters of special interest are Little Gem creeping cotoneaster (Cotoneaster adpressus ’Little Gem’), variegated cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis ’Variegatus’) and willowleaf cotoneaster (Cotoneaster salicifolius ‘Repens’).  Cotoneaster is considered moderately deer resistant.
  • Viburnum trilobum (American cranberrybush) – zones 2 – 7.  This large (10′ x 10′) native shrub has white flowers in late May, red fall foliage and bright scarlet berries in late fall though winter.  Smaller cultivars such as ‘Wentworth’ and ‘Compacteum’ are also available.  American cranberrybush is not generally not considered deer resistant.

Common Snowberry berries

Shrubs with white berries:

  • Nandina domestica ‘Alba’ (Heavenly Bamboo ‘Alba’) zones 6 – 9.  Alba is an evergreen, upright shrub that prefers well-draining soil and full sun to partial shade. but is adaptable to many growing conditions.   Color comes from white flowers in the spring and creamy white berries in the fall.  Unlike many other Nandina’s, Alba does not have any reddish tinge to its leaves. Nandina is considered moderately deer resistant.
  • Symphoricarpos albus (Common Snowberry) zones 3 – 7.  This fast-growing native shrub has attractive blue-green leaves most of the year but it’s the snow-white berries from September through early winter that make this medium-sized shrub an interesting addition to your garden.  Common snowberry tolerates full sun to shade and virtually any soil type.  Common snowberry is especially useful planted in mass in a shady area.  Remember to give it lots of room since it spreads by suckers quite easily.

Yellow Berry American Holly

Shrubs with yellow berries:

  • Ilex opaca ‘Xanthocarpa’ (Yellow berry American holly) zones 5 – 9.  A North American native  broad-leafed evergreen shrub with distinctive yellow berries.  American hollies grow in full sun – partial shade and tolerate a variety of soil conditions.  ‘Xanthocarpa’ grows to about 20′ x 8′ and is an excellent specimen tree.  American hollies are considered deer resistant.
  •  Viburnum dilatatum ‘Michael Dodge’ (Linden viburnum) zones 5 – 7.  This tall, dense shrub thrives in shade and is deer-resistant.  During the fall, it is covered with yellow berries at the same time the foliage is turning varying shades of bronze and burgundy.  Plant in mass for the best effect.

What kinds of shrubs do you use in your garden for late fall and early winter color and interest?   I’d love to hear about your favorites so I can add them to my list.

Deer-Resistant Bulbs

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Daffodils are not the only option if you have deer in your garden

Daffodils are not the only option if you have deer in your garden

For gardeners like me who have deer routinely browsing virtually every plant in their garden, fall can be a particularly disheartening season.  While deer-free gardeners are happily planning for all the colorful spring-flowering bulbs they will plant in their gardens, we are left out in the cold with a severe case of bulb-envy.  Until now.

If you’re looking to expand your selection of bulbs beyond the tried and true crocus, daffodil and muscari, check out some of these deer-resistant bulbs:

  • Allium:   Flowering onions come in a remarkable array of interesting flowers that all make an architectural statement in any garden.  All require full sun.
  • Camassia:  This native bulb is highly adaptable.  It thrives in full sun to part shade and also tolerates moist soil.  It’s bright blue flowers are a welcome late spring addition to any garden.
  • Erythronium:  Trout Lily’s bright yellow flowers will help to brighten up a woodland garden.   They like partial shade and a rich, humusy soil.
  • Fritillaria:  Crown Imperials are available in several brightly colored shades but all like full sun and well-draining soil that remains dry during the summer.  Their large, interesting shape means just a few bulbs massed together will make a terrific focal point.
  • Ipheion:  Starflowers are ideal for naturalizing at the edge of a woodland or under trees and shrubs before they leaf out.  Their flowers, in shades of blue (there is also a pure white variety) also look good paired with daffodils.  Starflowers tolerate partial shade.  To make an impact, plant at least 50 – 100 bulbs in the same area.

This list includes just a few of the deer-resistant bulbs that are available for fall planting.  If you have others that you enjoy in your spring garden, please let us know what they are.  And remember, just because a plant is deer-resistant in my garden doesn’t mean it will be deer-resistant in yours.

And one final note about the outgoing links for each bulb.  If you followed them, you noticed they all brought you to the Colorblends website.  I chose to do that as a way to thank Colorblends for their generous donation of bulbs to the October 2009 Fairfield County Plant Swap.  To find out more about the Plant Swap and the Colorblends donation, click here.